Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Polish Salt Mine--- A Salt Cathedral


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@ Lilian & World Travelers

I was in Poland in 2009 and opt out of visiting the Salt Mine as part of our travel itinerary and chose other excursions.  Some fellow travelers went down the mine and was impressed.
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Deep underground in Poland lies something remarkable but little 

known outside Eastern Europe. For centuries, miners have extracted salt 

there, but left behind things quite startling and unique. Take a look at the 

most unusual salt mine in the world.



From the outside, Wieliczka Salt Mine does look extraordinary. 

It looks extremely well kept for a place that hasn't mined any salt for 

over ten years but apart from that it looks ordinary. However, over two 

hundred meters below ground it holds an astonishing secret. This is the salt 

mine that became an art gallery, cathedral and underground 

lake.






Situated in the Krakow area, Wieliczka is a small town of close 

to twenty thousand inhabitants. It was founded in the twelfth century by a 

local Duke to mine the rich deposits of salt that lie beneath. Until 1996 it 

did just that but the generations of miners did more than just extract. They 

left behind them a breathtaking record of their time underground in the 

shape of statues of mythic, historical and religious figures. They even 

created their own chapels in which to pray. Perhaps their most astonishing 

legacy is the huge underground cathedral they left behind for 

posterity.






It may feel like you are in the middle of a Jules Verne adventure 

as you descend in to the depths of the world. After a one hundred and fifty 

meter climb down wooden stairs the visitor to the salt mine will see some 

amazing sites. About the most astounding in terms of its sheer size and 

audacity is the Chapel of Saint Kinga. The Polish people have for many 

centuries been devout Catholics and this was more than just a long term 

hobby to relieve the boredom of being underground. This was an act of 

worship.







Amazingly, even the chandeliers in the cathedral are made of 

salt. It was not simply hewn from the ground and then thrown together; 

however, the process is rather more painstaking for the lighting. After 

extraction the rock salt was first of all dissolved. It was then 

reconstituted with the impurities taken out so that it achieved a glass-like 

finish. The chandeliers are what many visitors think the rest of the 

cavernous mine will be like as they have a picture in their minds of salt as 

they would sprinkle on their meals! However, the rock salt occurs naturally 

in different shades of grey (something like you would expect granite to look like).






Still, that doesn't stop well over one million visitors (mainly 

from Poland and its eastern European neighbors) from visiting the mine to 

see, amongst other things, how salt was mined in the 

past.




For safety reasons less than one percent of the mine is open to 

visitors, but even that is still almost four kilometers in length  more 

than enough to weary the average tourist after an hour or two. The mine was 

closed for two reasons  the low price of salt on the world market made it 

too expensive to extract here. Also, the mine was slowly flooding  another 

reason why visitors are restricted to certain areas 

only.




The religious carvings are, in reality, what draw many to this 

mine  as much for their amazing verisimilitude as for their Christian 

aesthetics. The above shows Jesus appearing to the apostles after the 

crucifixion. He shows the doubter, Saint Thomas, the wounds on his 

wrists.




Another remarkable carving, this time a take on The Last Supper. 

The work and patience that must have gone into the creation of these 

sculptures is extraordinary. One wonders what the miners would have thought 

of their work going on general display? They came to be quite used to it, in 

fact, even during the mines busiest period in the nineteenth century. The 

cream of EuropeĆ¢ thinkers visited the site  you can still see many of 

their names in the old visitor books on display.







These reliefs are perhaps among some of the most iconographic 

works of Christian folk art in the world and really do deserve to be shown. 

It comes as little surprise to learn that the mine was placed on the 

original list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites back in 

1978.








Not all of the work is relief-based. There are many life sized 

statues that must have taken a considerable amount of time  months, perhaps 

even years  to create. Within the confines of the mine there is also much 

to be learned about the miners from the machinery and tools that they used   

many of which are on display and are centuries old. A catastrophic flood in 

1992 dealt the last blow to commercial salt mining in the area and now the 

mine functions purely as a tourist attraction. Brine is, however, still 

extracted from the mine  and then evaporated to produce some salt, but 

hardly on the ancient scale. If this was not done, then the mines would soon 

become flooded once again.






Not all of the statues have a religious or symbolic imagery 

attached to them. The miners had a sense of humor, after all! Here can be 

seen their own take on the legend of Snow White and the Seven Dwarves. The 

intricately carved dwarves must have seemed to some of the miners a kind of 

ironic depiction of their own work.




The miners even threw in a dragon for good measure! Certainly, 

they may have whistled while they did it but the conditions in the salt mine 

were far from comfortable and the hours were long  the fact that it was 

subterranean could hardly have added to the excitement of going to work each 

morning.






To cap it all there is even an underground lake, lit by subdued 

electricity and candles. This is perhaps where the old legends of lakes to 

the underworld and Catholic imagery of the saints work together to best 

leave a lasting impression of the mine. How different a few minutes 

reflection here must have been to the noise and sweat of everyday working 

life in the mine.



 




Published  11/15/11  altgroup multiply
Web Page:  Polish Salt Mine--- A Salt Cathedral

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